Hair Help

Written by Jan Sheehan

What Frizzy-Haired Person Hasn't Coveted A Bone-Straight Mane? And was there ever someone with ultrafine tresses who didn't wish for voluminous curls? Like it or not, when it comes to hair, you need to make the best of what you've got. “Even though it's all made of protein, different types and textures require different products and care regimens,” says David Kingsley, PhD, a hair and scalp expert — or trichologist — in New York City. “There's no one-size-fits-all product.” Whether your mop is straight, fine, thick, curly, or coiled, these expert instructions will bring out its natural beauty.

STRAIGHT HAIR

The Problem: “Straight hair needs frequent shampooing because it has a tendency to be flat,” says stylist Dustin David of Dustin David Salon in Los Gatos, California.

The Solution: Shampoos and conditioners that contain rosemary or rice protein add fullness and shine. “Washing your hair daily will also help lift it off the scalp and give it volume,” says David. When hair is clean, rinse with cool water to help smooth the protective outer layer, or cuticle. Because damaged strands are more noticeable in straight hair, Kingsley recommends fastening your mane into a low ponytail with a wide, fabric-covered band that won't tear hair or create tension at the vulnerable hairline. To wear coarse hair down, spritz a finishing product that contains silicone — a natural compound found in quartz — onto hair and brush smooth. The end result: a glistening, not greasy, polish.

FINE HAIR

The Problem: Fine hair can be brittle and thin, but it can also be oily. “You have more hairs on your head than people with other hair types, which means more oil glands,” says Kingsley.

The Solution: Choose a lightweight shampoo with wheat protein to strengthen and plump up wispy strands. Clear products have fewer heavy ingredients than creamy shampoos, which can weigh down fine hair, making it look flat and limp. And always look for tea-tree oil. Shampoos and conditioners with 5 percent tea-tree oil help get rid of that itchy, greasy feeling, according to a 2006 study in Clinical Microbiology Reviews. While styling, dry on low heat, and use a round boar-bristle brush to boost volume and help prevent breakage. Finally, create fullness and lift by parting hair against your natural part, and use a texturizing styling product with vitamin B5 (also called panthenol), which thickens and holds.

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Whatever your hair type, learn to naturally optimize and beautify what you have.